Some Enchanted Evening

On the surface, Loi Krathong is a festival of lights. From temples and homes decked out in lanterns, to candle-lit floats drifting down waterways and fireworks streaking across the sky, wherever you look you will find flickering illumination and enchanting displays.

The holiday creates a magical atmosphere that is at once quintessentially Thai yet can be appreciated by all.

The annual festival, however, actually stems from an ancient harvest ritual. Held on the 12th full moon of the lunar calendar, Loi Krathong honours the Water Goddess and importance of the country’s rivers that support life and water the crops. While not necessarily a religious celebration, many Thais may go to the temple to make merit. It is also believed that releasing a krathong, a floating vessel decorated with flowers, candles and incense, frees you of the past year's sins and burdens, ushering in new opportunities for luck and prosperity.

Some historians suggest that Loi Krathong began during the Sukhothai period when a royal consort first released a krathong down the river. Regardless of the festival's origin, it is now celebrated across Thailand, taking on a different flavour in different regions of the country.

In northern Thailand, the festival has merged with traditional Lanna customs and lantern releases are common, while in Tak province, instead of the usual floats made from intricately folded banana leaves and flowers, locals make krathong from hollowed out coconut shells filled with wax.

This year, Loi Krathong officially takes place on 23 November but, depending on where you are, festivities can last for several days before and after the full moon.

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Capital Celebrations

In Bangkok, people traditionally gathered along the Chao Phraya River or around the city's many canals, but these days even lakes and ponds will be dotted with flickering floats.

While you can find Loi Krathong activities pretty much wherever you go, the riverside Asiatique market hosts a popular krathong release and various cultural performances alongside its usual shopping, drinking and dining venues. Alternatively, an evening river cruise will take you through the heart of the festivities. 

Northern Thai Traditions

In the northern cultural hub of Chiang Mai, Loi Krathong traditions are celebrated alongside customs from the historic Lanna Kingdom. Originally, fire lanterns were released into the sky to give thanks for the rain and water as part of a festival known as Yee Peng. When the Siamese kingdom overtook the Lanna region and traditions merged, the people of Chiang Mai also began to celebrate Loi Krathong.

Nowadays, festivities centre along the Ping River with crowds converging on Tha Pae Road between Tha Pae Gate at the edge of the old city to Nawarat Bridge crossing the river. As the sun sets, performances and parades occur around town while people make their way to the river to release krathong and lanterns, known as khom loy, once it’s dark. For those who prefer to avoid the masses, making reservations in advance at riverside hotels and restaurants offer a more exclusive opportunity to enjoy a meal and perhaps even decorate your very own krathong.

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Ancient Customs

In the ancient capital of Sukhothai, where the festival is supposed to have originated, Loi Krathong celebrations are a five-day affair. Alongside the traditional release of krathong, cultural performances, pop-up markets, historical reenactments, parades, and a spectacular light and fireworks show are also popular.

Known locally as Loi Krathong Phao Thein Len Fai, activities are primarily around the Sukhothai Historical Park and its notable temple ruins, such as Wat Tra Pang Ngoen and Wat Chana Songkhram. Locals also release krathong in town along the Mae Yom River.

Beachfront Fun

On the islands, releasing krathong into the sea can be a bit more challenging but the holiday is celebrated with the same enthusiasm as elsewhere in the country. You'll often find celebrations accompanied by fireworks or the release of khom loy.

In Phuket, Loi Krathong is celebrated practically anywhere there is water but popular locations include the lake near Laguna Village, the lake at Saphan Hin and Nai Harn Lake.

Yee Peng

For those spending Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai, a spectacular lantern release awaits. Now well-known across the globe, this practice is widespread enough to ground night flights in and out of the city.

Throughout town, people release khom loy over the three days that make up Loi Krathong and Yee Peng celebrations in Chiang Mai. Wherever you are, you can find a way to join in the festivities. The mass lantern release of internet fame, however, is hosted at Mae Jo University where up to 10,000 lanterns are let go creating a glittering river of golden stars that dance across the night sky.

Due to its popularity, the event has become private in recent years and purchased tickets are required. Released for sale as it gets closer to the festival, tickets are extremely limited and begin at around 100 USD. Premium and VIP packages include transportation, goodies and more. Even at these prices, demand is so high that a second event hosted in Doi Saket is now offered. More information can be found at yeepenglanternfestival.com.